Learning how to measure the gullet of a saddle is one of those skills that sounds way more technical than it actually is, but it's the difference between a happy horse and one that's pinning its ears every time you approach with a girth. We spend so much time worrying about the seat size for our own comfort, but the gullet is really what determines if the saddle is going to pinch your horse's shoulders or bridge across their back. If you've ever wondered why your horse is acting grumpy or why the saddle seems to be sliding around, the gullet width is usually the first place you should look.
You don't need a degree in saddle making or a trunk full of expensive tools to get a decent measurement. Most of the time, a simple tape measure and maybe a piece of flexible wire are all it takes to get the job done. Let's break down the easiest ways to handle this so you can get back to riding.
Why the gullet width is such a big deal
The gullet is basically the tunnel that runs down the underside of the saddle. Its main job is to provide clearance for the horse's spine and withers. If the gullet is too narrow, it's going to pinch the sides of the withers like a pair of shoes that are two sizes too small. If it's too wide, the saddle will drop down and put direct pressure on the top of the spine, which is incredibly painful for the horse.
Horses aren't static objects, either. A saddle that fit perfectly last summer might be way too tight now if your horse has been in heavy work and built up a lot of topline muscle. Conversely, if they've had some time off and lost muscle, that once-perfect saddle might now be "bottoming out" on their bone. Knowing how to check the measurement yourself saves you from guessing or waiting weeks for a professional saddle fitter to show up just to tell you what a tape measure could have told you in five minutes.
What you'll need before you start
Before you head out to the tack room, grab a few basic items. You won't need anything fancy, just stuff you probably already have lying around the house or the barn.
- A flexible tape measure: The kind used for sewing is best because it can bend around the curves of the saddle. A stiff metal carpenter's tape works in a pinch, but it's a bit clunkier.
- A piece of heavy-duty, flexible wire: A coat hanger works, but a piece of solder or a dedicated "wither tracer" tool from a tack shop is even better. You want something that will hold its shape once you bend it.
- A piece of paper and a pen: Especially if you're measuring multiple saddles or trying to compare them to your horse's back.
- A level surface: Make sure the saddle is sitting on a stand or a rack where it isn't wobbling around.
Measuring the saddle directly (the quick way)
If you're looking at a saddle in a shop or trying to sell one online, people are going to ask for the "concho-to-concho" or "D-ring to D-ring" measurement. This is the most common way to get a general idea of the gullet size.
Western saddles: Finding the conchos
On a Western saddle, you want to measure the distance between the two conchos (those decorative metal circles) on either side of the pommel. These are usually bolted right into the tree, so they give a fairly accurate representation of how wide the bars of the saddle are.
Take your tape measure and hold the "zero" mark on the inside of one concho and pull it straight across to the inside of the other. Most standard Western saddles will fall somewhere between 6 and 7 inches. A "Quarter Horse Bar" is usually around 6.5 inches, while "Full Quarter Horse Bars" are usually 7 inches or more.
English saddles: Finding the "dots"
English saddles are measured a bit differently. Instead of conchos, you're looking for the small metal nail heads (often called "fittings" or "dots") located just below the pommel on the front of the saddle.
Measure the distance between these two dots. This is generally how manufacturers categorize saddles as Narrow, Medium, or Wide. A medium gullet is usually around 4 to 4.5 inches, while a wide gullet can be 5 inches or more. Just keep in mind that every brand is a little different—one brand's "wide" might be another brand's "medium-wide," which is why the actual inch measurement is so much more useful than the label.
The "Wire Trace" method: Measuring for the horse
While measuring the saddle is great for selling it, measuring the horse is what actually tells you if the saddle will fit. This is where the flexible wire comes in. This is widely considered the "gold standard" for DIY saddle fitting because it creates a physical template of your horse's shape.
First, make sure your horse is standing on level ground and is relatively square. Feel for the back edge of the shoulder blade (the scapula). You want to measure about two fingers' width behind that bone—that's where the front of the saddle tree will actually sit.
Take your flexible wire and drape it over the horse's withers at that exact spot. Press it down so it molds perfectly to the shape of their back, like an upside-down "U." Once you've got the shape, carefully lift it off so it doesn't bend, and lay it down on your piece of paper. Trace the inside of the wire with your pen.
Now, take your saddle and see how that "U" shape fits inside the gullet. If there's a massive gap at the top, the gullet is too narrow. If the wire hits the top of the gullet tunnel before the sides touch the panels, it's too wide. It's a low-tech way to get a high-accuracy result.
Common mistakes people make with the tape measure
One of the biggest blunders when figuring out how to measure the gullet of a saddle is measuring the wrong spot. It's easy to get confused by the padding. Remember, you aren't measuring the soft fleece or the leather flaps; you're trying to measure the distance between the hard points of the tree.
If you measure too low down on the skirts, you'll get a huge number that doesn't actually mean anything for the fit. If you measure too high up in the "arch" of the pommel, you'll get a tiny number. You have to find that sweet spot where the tree bars actually begin to angle away from the pommel.
Another mistake is forgetting that the angle of the bars matters just as much as the width. You can have a 7-inch gullet that is too steep for a flat-backed horse, or a 6-inch gullet that is too flat for a high-withered horse. If the angle doesn't match the horse's "slope," the width measurement won't save you from a bad fit.
How to tell if your current gullet is too narrow or wide
Sometimes you don't even need a tape measure to know something is wrong. If you're already riding in a saddle and want to check the fit, do the "fingertip test."
With the saddle cinched up (but without a rider), you should be able to fit about two to three fingers vertically between the top of the horse's withers and the pommel. If you can only squeeze one finger in there, or if it's touching the bone, that gullet is way too wide or the horse's withers are too high for that specific tree.
On the flip side, if the saddle looks like it's "perched" on top of the horse and you can see daylight all the way through the gullet from a mile away, it's likely too narrow. A narrow saddle will also tend to tip the rider's weight toward the back, making you feel like you're constantly fighting to stay in a balanced position.
Keeping up with your horse's changing shape
The most important thing to remember about how to measure the gullet of a saddle is that it's not a "one and done" task. Horses change shape constantly. A young horse will fill out as they mature, and an older horse might lose topline as they age. Even seasonal changes matter—a horse might be a "Wide" in the summer when they're fit and grazing on lush grass, but drop down to a "Medium" in the winter when they're less active.
I usually try to do a quick wire trace every six months or so. It only takes a few minutes, and it gives you peace of mind that you aren't causing your horse discomfort. If you notice the measurements have shifted by more than a half-inch, it's probably time to look into a different saddle or see if your current one can be adjusted by a pro.
At the end of the day, your horse is the one who has to carry the weight. Taking a little time to pull out a tape measure and check the gullet is the least we can do to make sure they're as comfortable as possible while they're doing their job. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to eye a saddle and know pretty quickly if it's even worth putting on your horse's back.